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For many
divers, your first “gear bag” is the plastic bag your merchandise comes in
when you initially buy mask, snorkel, fins, booties and gloves. However, it
soon becomes readily apparent that something more substantial will be needed
and that a gear bag suitable for the specialized needs of diving will be a
good purchase.
Size Matters
The first thing is to decide how big a gear bag you’ll need. That depends on
the type of diving you’ll be doing. If you’re carrying snorkeling equipment,
a smaller-size bag that holds personal gear will be adequate. If you’re doing
ocean diving and need room for your wetsuit, BC and reg with computer, then
something larger is appropriate. And if you’re going to be traveling, you
might need something even bigger to hold dive gear and other items for your
trip.
Factor in dive locale when considering the size of the bag. Since California
divers use bulky wetsuits and drysuits, they tend to need bigger bags than
warm water divers, who will be carrying 3mm suits or polartecs.
Bring Your Fins
Once you’ve determined what size bag will be best for you, it is essential
that you make sure your fins fit inside the main compartment. Nothing will be
more frustrating than finding a bag you really like and discovering (after
you’ve made the purchase) that it’s too short for your fins. Bring your fins
when shopping (both of ’em). Just about every piece of dive gear you’ll put
in a bag (reg, BC, wetsuit) can be size-adjusted by twisting or folding. But
you can’t fold your fins in half, so you’ll need to find a bag that can
accommodate your fins.
Compartments and Pockets
You’ll find that some bags have one big open compartment, while others have
various (usually zippered) pockets and compartments. Either one can work.
Personally, I like having a couple of pockets to separate my spare gear from
my regular diving gear. But the trade-off is that my main compartment becomes
a bit smaller.
Straps and Wheels
Most bags come with some sort of a shoulder strap. It’s much easier to carry
a bag using the shoulder strap than it will be just using handles. If the bag
you want only has handles a shoulder strap can easily be added if it has some
grommets or D-rings on the corners. Some bags (especially those designed for
travel) have backpack straps to leave your hands free for those walks through
airports or down a loading ramp.
Perhaps the most welcome innovation in recent years has been the addition of
wheels. Some bags have a set of wheels mounted on one end and a small handle
at the other end for dragging it around. Other bags not only have wheels, but
a telescoping rigid handle that’s bolted to the bottom of the bag. The rigid
handle makes the bag easier to maneuver, but the disadvantage is that its
mechanism usually protrudes through the inside compartment, robbing you of a
little space and making for an uneven bottom. But many divers feel this is a
small sacrifice for the added benefit of being able to roll, instead of
carry, what is often a heavy bag.
Regulator Bags
Because your reg/computer is probably the most expensive and most
easily-dinged piece of dive gear, some bags have not only a separate
compartment for the reg, but a specially-padded regulator bag as well. Even
if the bag you want doesn’t have this feature, a number of manufacturers make
small bags specifically designed for regs and gauges, which can either be
stored inside a gear bag or carried on the plane and stored in the overhead
compartment.
Travel Considerations
If you’ll be doing a lot of traveling with your gear bag, here are some other
factors to consider:
Material—Because airport cargo loaders aren’t renowned for their gentleness,
you’ll want to get a bag that will hold up well under rough handling. Ask
about the thread count of the material. Higher (denser) thread count should
translate into longer life, although it will add to the cost of the bag.
Stitching—Take a look at the stitching. The heavier it is, the more durable
the bag should be. Nothing’s perfect, but heavier, denser thread will
probably hold up better in the long run. It will also add to the cost of the
bag.
Padding—It’ll protect your gear, but you sacrifice some interior space.
Security—Although no bags (that we know of) come with built-in locks, they
all have dual zippers that can be locked together with inexpensive, small
travel padlocks. Just make sure the holes on the zipper tabs are big enough
to slip the hasp of the lock through.
Dry area—Chances are you’re coming home with wet gear, so it’s nice to have
an area for wet items that’s sealed off from the rest of the bag. However, if
you find a bag you really like and it doesn’t have a dry area, you can use
plastic garbage bags for your wet stuff.
Color—A colorful bag is a lot easier to spot than basic black when it comes
down the baggage chute. But if your gear bag of choice only comes in black,
you can always add a splash of color with electrician’s tape from a hardware
store.
Multiple Bags
There’s nothing wrong with having two or three different-sized bags for the different
types of diving you do. I personally have a snorkeling bag for pool
sessions or my weekly dives at the Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific (it
also doubles as my drysuit bag), a “regular” gear bag for local trips and a
third wheeled bag that’s better suited for traveling.
Load It Up
The final thing to do once you’ve settled on your new gear bag is to make
sure all your stuff fits inside. Don’t be shy about laying out the bag on the
floor of your dive shop and loading it up with the typical gear you’ll be
using (just don’t try to sneak out with that same gear). There’s no sense in
buying a gear bag that seems great in the store, only to find out that it’s
too small once you get home. Believe it or not, the right gear bag can make
diving more fun and enjoyable, as it adds order to a sometimes chaotic sport.
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